The World of Anna Sui: M.A.D Exhibit Review

Anna Sui in NYC Office

In the quaint halls of the Museum of Arts and Design, located right off of Columbus Circle in New York City, Anna Sui’s daring and iconic archived looks sit patiently, waiting to be gazed upon. As the elevator opens on the fourth floor, 90’s rock music plays as giant screens portray her MTV music video-esque fashion shows. In her unmissable lilac font, “ANNA SUI” seems to be plastered on every wall accompanied by her psychedelic collections and pop cultured visions. This exhibit seamlessly blends her fantasy and reality, drawing the spectator into this mystical yet methodical space.

The show itself boasts 70 looks from her so far 84 collections and is meticulously organized. Knowing much less than I wish I did of Sui, I was thankful for a background into her success. Beginning on the fourth floor, an intimate, immersive experience into Sui’s most notable themes. Retro, Androgyny, Americana, Schoolgirl to name a few. An abundance of surfer prints, textures, flowers, butterflies, deep purples, reds and yellows seamlessly blend. My favorite part of each look; however, was the footwear. Hot pink socks and Wizard of Oz-like ruby heels seemed to be the mood and somehow it could tie the entire look together. With each collection, a few sentences prefaced the ideas along with a quote from Sui; on her Americana collection, she writes, “Optimism and romance – they’ve always colored my Americana”. Her cheeky additions playfully introduce the spectator into her thought process.

Photos by Olivia Garcia

Her gothic font invitations are memorialized on one wall, making one jealous of all the recipients. In another room, she graciously thanks her jewelry, makeup and other collaborators, of which many continue working with her – only highlighting her humility. We then, transition into the world of Anna Sui makeup, perfumes and funky sunglasses. A woman of all trades.

The fifth floor is primarily based on Sui’s influences and processes. Victorian, Hippie & Rock star, mirror Sui’s interest in films, pop culture and music. These pieces are my favorite. The darkness and grunge make for a Stevie Nicks meets Madonna feeling and the fabrics are delicate and whimsical. We see the interworking’s of Sui’s mind through four large mood boards that boast everything from fabric swatches to Alice in Wonderland stills.

Lastly, a timeline is etched into the wall, outlining every important milestone in Sui’s life, such as when she moved to NYC to study at Parsons and when she was fired from one of her first jobs at Glenora. Her humble beginnings are clearly felt throughout the curation of this exhibit and hold Sui to high ground.

Photos by Olivia Garcia

What is there to learn from Sui? Her creative universe is seemingly vast and unexpected. She is constantly and continuously outdoing herself. Her determination and personal obsessions meet meticulous research. As the exhibit writes, Sui is “creating dichotomies of light and darkness, of innocence and knowledge and sweet and acerbic”. This collection and experience is unmissable. To be brought into Sui’s world is to re-experience culture, music and appreciate her nods towards escapism, surrealism and rejection.

Photo by Olivia Garcia